Scott Benson, from Jamursba-Medi, Indonesia. Uninterrupted rain, frequently heavy, has been falling since 8 a.m. This is unusual for Jamursba-Medi during July, which is the dry season on the Bird’s Head Peninsula. Many of the beach patrollers don’t have adequate rain equipment, so we decide to stay at the camp tonight.

The next morning, during a reprieve from the rain, we’re treated to a tour of the forest. Davit, a resident of Jamursba-Medi, leads us into the jungle during the early hours before dawn. The tall trees are abundant and breathtaking. Walking into this forest is like walking into a huge cathedral: only glimpses of the sky are available above the green canopy. Davit explains the many uses of the plants by the local villagers. Products of some plants are used to treat severe cuts and injuries, while others provide relief from various illnesses, including malaria and dysentery. Some plants are edible and are an important component of the local diet. The forest is habitat for large animals, such as the deer and pig we eat daily. We’re inside the local food and drug outlet.

Economic interests involving natural resource exploitation, such as timber and mining are increasing on the north Bird’s Head coast. The people that live here are facing some difficult decisions about their future. Selling rights to log this forest offer attractive economic benefits that could provide enhanced education, health care, and transportation opportunities, but the forest is the foundation of these communities. The people that live here are intimately linked to this forest, keenly aware of all its components and inhabitants. Without the forest, people couldn’t live here for very long. Economists, conservationists, and scientists are developing plans to link economic incentives with forest and beach protection at Bird’s Head. Please read the blog entry, “A Pitch For Leatherbacks In Malayasia” (23 July 2007) for further details.

We’re on an expedition to see the icon of New Guinea, the Cenderawasih (pronounced Chen-der-wa-see), also known as the Bird of Paradise. The ornate Cenderawasih is the namesake for many things in Papua, for example, there’s a Cenderawasih Bay, Cenderawasih Hotel, and some of the students with us are from Cenderawasih University. The flag of Papua New Guinea proudly displays a Cenderawasih. Davit takes us to the trees where the birds are often found. Two Cenderawasih’s are making a tremendous noise, squawking high above the forest floor. They’re too far away for a good photograph, but we are able to appreciate their splendid feathers with the aid of binoculars.Written on July 23, 2007, in Jamursba-Medi, Indonesia.